19.10.14
In the mid eighties, my work used to take me often to Jabalpur. Jabalpur, the city of marble. Like Kankrauli and Makrana in Rajasthan. People here are just short of building compound walls in marble.
The hotel where I used to stay had a palatial lobby impressively laid out in marble. Jabalpur is a major railway junction, seat of the High Court, and major defence establishments. Quite a hub for Ordnance factories. This business is what used to take me to Jabalpur.
On one of these trips, I remember hiring an elderly rickshaw chacha. Must have been in his early fifties. A couple of younger rickshawwallahs taunted me at my choice. " बाबूजी, खमारिया श्याम तक पहुँच जाओगे " they said.
As is my habit, I started striking a conversation with my companion for the journey. I wondered aloud why a city of this size and hustle bustle did not have auto rickshaws yet. Jabalpur is your typical central India town/city. Law and order here is so so. The rickshaw chacha told me matter of factly " दो तीन आये थे। हमारे leader लोगोने जला डाले। "
On the way to Khamaria, one has to cross a railway bridge. The approach road to this bridge is quite steep on both sides. Although we had started out quite early in the morning from the hotel and there was still a nip in the air, our chacha had started to work out a mild sweat by the time we reached the bridge. By reflex , I jumped off the rickshaw to reduce his load. Chacha was taken by surprise and brought it to a full stop. "काहे उतर गये ,बाबूजी ? नाराज़ हो का ?" Poor guy was mopping his face of the sweat already. I explained to him that I will walk alongside till he crosses the bridge. Not a problem. Guy choked and almost broke into tears. " का बताएं ,साब। इस चढ़ाई पर तीन तीन बैठते हैं और कहते हैं जल्दी करो ,जल्दी करो। सुनना पड़ता है ,पैसा जो देते हैं। " How can anyone be so insensitive to a fellow human being?
When we reached our destination, I gave him the agreed fare and a small tip. Chacha broke into a grin and said " अगली बार आएंगे , बाबूजी , तो हमारे साथ ही चलिएगा। मैं वहीं होटल के बाहर खड़ा रहता हूँ "
I was back in Jabalpur after six months or so. Same hotel, same destination. Wanted to go with the same chacha. But he was not in sight. So asked the other youngsters. " यहाँ पर एक चाचा थे ? कहाँ गये ? आज आये नहीं क्या ?" One of the brats replied " अच्छा वो बुड्ढा ? वो तो मर गया " Again matter of factly.
"कहाँ जायेंगे ,साब ? खमरिया ?" Back to business. This time I did not get down at the bridge. "पैसे जो दे रहा था। "
In the mid eighties, my work used to take me often to Jabalpur. Jabalpur, the city of marble. Like Kankrauli and Makrana in Rajasthan. People here are just short of building compound walls in marble.
The hotel where I used to stay had a palatial lobby impressively laid out in marble. Jabalpur is a major railway junction, seat of the High Court, and major defence establishments. Quite a hub for Ordnance factories. This business is what used to take me to Jabalpur.
Like in most locations, Ordnance Factories in Jabalpur are huge estates far away from the main town. One of these was in Khamaria . In the blessed old days, the only mode of local transport available was a cycle rickshaw. The journey from the hotel to the Ordnance factories would take a leisurely 45 mins or so.
On one of these trips, I remember hiring an elderly rickshaw chacha. Must have been in his early fifties. A couple of younger rickshawwallahs taunted me at my choice. " बाबूजी, खमारिया श्याम तक पहुँच जाओगे " they said.
As is my habit, I started striking a conversation with my companion for the journey. I wondered aloud why a city of this size and hustle bustle did not have auto rickshaws yet. Jabalpur is your typical central India town/city. Law and order here is so so. The rickshaw chacha told me matter of factly " दो तीन आये थे। हमारे leader लोगोने जला डाले। "
On the way to Khamaria, one has to cross a railway bridge. The approach road to this bridge is quite steep on both sides. Although we had started out quite early in the morning from the hotel and there was still a nip in the air, our chacha had started to work out a mild sweat by the time we reached the bridge. By reflex , I jumped off the rickshaw to reduce his load. Chacha was taken by surprise and brought it to a full stop. "काहे उतर गये ,बाबूजी ? नाराज़ हो का ?" Poor guy was mopping his face of the sweat already. I explained to him that I will walk alongside till he crosses the bridge. Not a problem. Guy choked and almost broke into tears. " का बताएं ,साब। इस चढ़ाई पर तीन तीन बैठते हैं और कहते हैं जल्दी करो ,जल्दी करो। सुनना पड़ता है ,पैसा जो देते हैं। " How can anyone be so insensitive to a fellow human being?
When we reached our destination, I gave him the agreed fare and a small tip. Chacha broke into a grin and said " अगली बार आएंगे , बाबूजी , तो हमारे साथ ही चलिएगा। मैं वहीं होटल के बाहर खड़ा रहता हूँ "
I was back in Jabalpur after six months or so. Same hotel, same destination. Wanted to go with the same chacha. But he was not in sight. So asked the other youngsters. " यहाँ पर एक चाचा थे ? कहाँ गये ? आज आये नहीं क्या ?" One of the brats replied " अच्छा वो बुड्ढा ? वो तो मर गया " Again matter of factly.
"कहाँ जायेंगे ,साब ? खमरिया ?" Back to business. This time I did not get down at the bridge. "पैसे जो दे रहा था। "
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